Rule #1: what goes down, must come up

Eat it, Newton.

After Lima, the next city on my list was ´Arequipa,´ nicknamed the ´the white city´ because most of the buildings were made from a very strong white rock from the mountains. It was a beautiful and family friendly city (at least before midnight, jaja), with loads of people hanging out in the town center into the night. Lonely Planet also calls it ´Canyon County,´ because travelers have the opportunity to trek through the second deepest canyon in the world: Cañon del Colca!



There is a more graphic form of Catholicism here than Lima. In every church, Jesus is shown very very bloodly. It was really graphic and I did not want a photo of it! But it did show how devout this city was. In place of copius amounts of gold altars, they used the crucified Christ. To me, I felt these images saying, ´this is what we did to God, who wanted to help us.´ Gotta pay attention.

I also have never seen this image of Mary. It shows her with 7 swords in her heart, signifying the 7 times her son really hurt her because of what he did or what happened to him (like when Jesus ran away, or when He fell during the Passion). I thought it was very interesting.



On the happy side! (sorry guys)...a little ways away from the tourist district, I found where the locals hung out on Sunday nights. Completely filled with taxis and Peruvians, without a gringo (except me) in site. Every person stared at me like I was an alien! I think it was due to my Jacket/shorts/flip-flops combo. That night, I dined on $2 chinese food and picked up some Ice-cream from one of the many desert shops lining the street. Guys, Latin-American ice-cream cannot be beaten.




I could not wait for my first trek: A 3 day journey into Cañon del Río Colca, almost 4000m down! I was very lucky in this package: $50 with transportation, food, and lodging, all provided for. I highly recommend X-treme Peru if anyone wants to go to the Cañon!

Our guide was a king. His name was Angel, and he is making a living doing treks! I call him ´Hombre-Araña´(spiderman) because he is one of the few humans in the world who can Free-Climb, that is, climb a vertical mountain without any rope. Just hands, feet, and chalk. He was also our cook! Here, Angel is showing us an ancient tradition: If there are clouds in the sky, and the natives had a long journey ahead of them, they would raise Coca leaves in between their face and the clouds...and then would blow the leaves away. When the leaves blew away, so did the clouds.



Also in our group were two of the bravest people I have met so far. Suzanna (tallest, from Holland) had already been traveling for 6 months. In the past, she did a year both in Australia and Asia. Angela (medium height, from Germany) had traveled already for 3 months and had 8 months to go! She also did 5 months in Asia. When I heard these, I was shocked at how they could keep going and be in a different place...a different country...for such a long time! Not having a ´home´ until many months later. When we met up with other groups, this in fact was very common! Most of the other travelers in the other groups were either from Australia or Europe, and all had been traveling for at least 4 months...and had no plans of going home. In fact, I was the only American! And the only one with less than 4 months iof traveling (1 week at that time...to be exact, jaja).



I thought it was strange, because none of the people I met really missed home or the relationships left behind. Many were traveling to escape the jobs/careers that they did not enjoy...or were simply burned out with school/work. Others (like Suzanna) were self-proclaimed ´travel addicts.´ One was Chris, who was semi-retired and just wanted to see the world. I do not know how they do it.

The trip was amazingly difficult. At every stop, we filled our bodies with the water they lost. Downhill...while less strenuous on the heart, was killer for the knees and joints. The view, though, was incredible. Sometimes, indigenous people would pass by on donkeys. In the pic above, if you look closely, you can see villages in the distance. Yes, to have commericial goods, these towns have to pass through our trek every time! There are also some indigenous who still cross over the mountain to trade corn for many other goods on the other side...a journey that takes about 50 days.

Near the bottom, we saw the Colca river, which carved the canyon millions of years ago.



At the end of our first day, we trekked another hour up from the bottom and into a village where our hostal was located. It reminded me so much of how m parents grew up: little electricity, dogs and chickens everywhere, cold showers, and early bedtimes. It was owned by the Danilo family. Their bedroom was next to the kitchen, and when we saw it, we were like, ´how is our room so much better than theirs!´ the whole family in 1 bed, with all of their possessions scattered on the other bed. This is the life that they have always known, but still to me it seemed incredible to live so simply and to truly earn everything you have. In these villages, we see only adults or small children. This is because the school only goes up to about 3rd grade, and then grown children have to move out into boarding schools. There was a little Danilo there...Kevin!



That night was the earliest I have ever slept since I was maybe...10 years old! The next morning, we started up again. We stopped by the center of the town of Malata where there is a church dating back to the 1500´s. It was actually built by the Italians! In this square, rival tribes would get together in February to celebrate ´carnaval.´



Along the way, we were treated to some ´chicha´and some of the ´tuna plant.´



We were most looking forward to the ´Oasis,´which was a nice cool pool at the bottom of the canyon. There, we rejoined the other groups and just relaxed for a few hours. All that relaxing did not set up an excited start to the ascent! We were way too chilled to move But we must follow the rules and go up!




The ascent was filled with sweat. Luckily I had my Coca leaf candy! The Coca leaf is the miracle plant of the altiplano. It helps with altitude sickness, the common cold, bruises, and digestive problems. I can´t remember the rest, but there are dozens more uses for this awesome plant.

With about 30 minutes left to climb, it started to rain. Wow, it felt amazing! Reaching the top, we all felt a sort of spiritual cleansing, in that we too joined the tradition of the ancients in embracing this sacred valley. That night, Angel cooked for us for the last time in a sweet bar playing Bob Marley and Jack Johnson the whole night. Alas, we were pooped, and slept very early again!

Our last day was chill. We took a short walk to a nice viewpoint, then boarded the van back to Arequipa...with a stop first at the hot springs. I can honestly say that this trip both exhausted and empowered me. Right now I am in Cuzco! Resting and waiting for the 5 day hike to Machu Piccu...on a trail known as the ´Salkantay.´Until then, take care!


Angela, Angel, y Suzanna.

A baby alpaca

alpaca ranch

Me and spiderman


A condor

Just breath

Hola a todos!

I made it, safely! After a few rocky moments as well as miraculous friendships, this trip is on the right track. Spanish is coming back to me...slowly! Peruvians speak so fast, and use so much slang! Sometimes I do fine, but other times my spanish is completely useless and they nod their head and start speaking english, jaja.

While on my way to Lima, many thoughts, good and bad, were going through my head. However, gracias a Dios there were many people He sent to help me out. One was a Peruvian lady who was finally returning to her country of birth after 60 years of living in the states! She sat next to me on the plane and...without any request from me...treated me like her grandson! Giving me cookies, candy, and encouraging words. We landed very late into the city and I definitely did not want to venture out. So I slept near the chapel, which was actually very safe! Flights came into Lima all night, and the airport was always packed full of families. When I awoke, I had my first Peruvian breakfast: a bottle of ´Inka Kola´, jaja. They should export it to the states!

Every relationship is important, and each should be treated with care. My friendship with a nun in Philadelphia led me to her old friend in Lima, Sister Anne of the Immaculate Heart elementary school. She offered to pick me up from the airport in the morning, and WOW we went above and beyond anything I was expecting. I felt so guilty! Sister Anne really thought I was her grandson. She fed me a huge breakfast, gave me clean towels and offered the convent´s shower, toured me around Lima, took me to see one of those ¨vocation doctors¨(he´s from Tulane!), and then fed me a huge lunch. It was wonderful. Jaja, it was also surprising to see such a gentle and old woman navigate the completely insane streets of Lima. Somehow no one hits each other, but these were by far the most aggressive drivers I have ever seen! Amidst my anxieties, she really made me feel welcome. And we spoke in Engish too! With a slight Philly accent.

This ¨vocation doctor¨ from Tulane was named Dr. Tony. He became disenchanted with using his skills in the states, but then he received a higher calling. Dr. Tony is a living and breathing St. Francis of Assisi. He gave up everything to build a shelter/school/clinic for the poorest kids. He´s been here for so many years. Not only does he give them care, but he is also really tough on the kids! Making sure that they are not ¨babied¨and are taught to do things for themselves. Sister Anne and I jumped when I told him about Tulane, because he said that he graduated from there too! So I wondered if Dr. Tony is also an ND man, but sadly no. There was, though, a volunteer there who was from ND! Theresa, ´07, from Mcglinn, majored in Psychology. Anyone know her? Small world!

The strength, courage, and dedication that Dr. Tony and the sisters possess was so inspiring. They truly love life and understand that their work pays them in something much more than what they can make monetarily in the states. I´ve never seen a cleft palate before in real life, but there was a crib where a baby was waiting for his operation, and next to it a baby whose face was fixed. The results were amazing! They bring hope to those who seek to bring good. I want all of yáll to meet them! Seeing all the kids, I started to grow angry at all the young people who want to do medicine solely for the money and prestige. Shame on all of you.

After a wonderful day, Sister Anne drove me to my hostel. Lima may be crazy, but I have never felt so unsafe as I did in this place. PEOPLE, DON´T EVER RESERVE A PLACE AT INKA LOUNGE! There was not even a reception area. Just a locked door that I had to knock to enter, one big dirty room, and a bunch of cells. My room had 8 other guys, oh man. I don´t know how I slept. What a spine-tinging night. It was the cheapest place I found online, but in the future I will spend the little extra for feelings of security. I did meet some non-intimidating guys there: 3 Indians who spoke neither Spanish nor English! These guys had courage. We were laughing together as we watched a bollywood movie. They warmed to me instantly due to my interest in India (thanks KC!). After one night, I changed hostels right away. However, it was located in a beautiful area of Lima: Miraflores. Right next to the Pacific, there is a long stretch of parks where people and families run, study, have picnics, and simply hang out. So many Peruvian couples too. This culture is extremely OPEN when it comes to P.D.A.! Especially in ¨Parque de Amor,¨oh man it was too much! Friends, check out the view!

I made a friend too while walking. Antonio se llamaba, y teniamos la misma edad! He works in Machu Piccu, and is very Incan. We had a contest testing to see who was stronger via pullups and pushups. Jaja, I think I won only because of the better food I have had...but if you equalize the food, Antonio would definitely have won!

A little ways south is the costal shopping mall called LarcoMar. It was here that I had my first ¨ceviche.¨Its alot like sashimi! They say Peruvian food is some of the best in the world because it blends together Spanish, French, Incan, Asian, and a little Creollian together. This ceviche, though, was outstanding. It consists of raw sea bass covered in a strong lemon juice and orange sauce. I thought that this would be a great breakfast!

While Miraflores is chill, the center of Lima is a mess. Millions of poor crammed into one place, because this is the best place to find a job...any job. I got a flashback to Mexico when I saw two young girls juggling balls in the street for money. Unemployment here is about 30%, so ANY job that these people can get, they do it with absolute pride. All walks of life, though, were found on the public buses (called ¨comby´s¨). What made an impression on me were those who worked the bus, consisting of a two person team: the driver and the spotter. The spotter is the real superhuman. He/she hangs onto the bus all day advertising to the people where the bus will go..while also collecting money. Many times the driver gets impatient and drives away while the spotter is still on the ground trying to get more people! Sister Anne told me that some make up to 13 soles/day (about 5 dollars). But they work so hard. On the bus, I was so lucky to befriend Rafael, a manager of a travel agency. He guided me to the center of Lima from the bus!

The absolute center of the city (La Plaza de Armas) is usually where the government and cathedral are located in latin-america. Lots of tourists there. I felt very safe. The cathedral was beautiful, and of course designed to make you feel small. I stayed there for nearly an hour just looking around, praying, and thinking. Peruvians were coming in and out all day. There was even a school trip for kids! I heard the kids whispering, ¨Mira al japones, jaja.¨ Afterwards, I checked out St. Francis of Assisi church (much respect for Dr. Tony!). They had a tour, but they did not allow photos! It was beautiful, I wish you guys could have seen too. It was the most unique decorations I have ever seen. Instead of painting the ceiling, wood was carved and placed onto it, much like pasting macaroni on paper. The choir loft was incredible. Remember in the basilica, all the way in the back? Those wooden chairs? This church had 130 all around. The center of the choir loft had a rotating block of wood, so that the director could quickly move onto the next page for the choir! The guide also took us to the catacombs...ooo bone-chilling. The dead´s bones were exposed for all to see! Can you believe also that there is a huge China town in Lima? Chinese food in Peru is also one of the best in the world (they call it ¨chifa¨ here).

On Friday night, Sister Anne took me to ¨El Parque de Agua,¨ a park that is filled with fountains. It holds 2 Guinness World Records for having the highest fountain and the most spectacular laser/fountain show! The government spent a ton of money for the park, but it was well worth it. Friday night was filled with hundreds of families. They deserve it, for they are the ones who pay government. Some cool sites were the Labyrinth (where kids go in and don´t know when water will shoot up!) and the laser show.

The next morning, Sister again took care of me! She invited me to go with the convent to help out at ¨Hospital para los niños.¨Early Saturday morning, this place was packed full of families and children. Many (not all) of the services are free, including community meals. The doctors, though, are top-notch. I got to help out distributing clothes! Wow, how incredible where life goes...when you pay attention. I was so lucky to have met the Sisters.

Alas, my short stay in Lima must end. Yesterday, I took an overnight bus to Arequipa...which is where I am now! In a very nice hostel where gracias a Dios I have my own room. On the way to the bus station in Lima, I had a great chat with my cab driver, Carlos. He is also a policeman! I asked him when he sleeps? He said to me, ¨tomorrow.¨But Carlos, what do you do when tomorrow comes? ¨Well when it comes, I will also only sleep tomorrow.¨Wow, what a tough guy. He works nearly 24 hours! Because he has 2 kids. He told me that Arequipa and Cuzco are beautiful places, but he has never been there. So many Peruvians live like this. The gap between being poor and becoming middle class is like long-jumping the Grand Canyon...yet some superhumans have achieved this leap. Many are kids, mostly girls, dressed poorly are still diligently studying math on the bus. They want to get out of that life. The next time you have a big test/paper due, remember that this stress is such a blessing.

Here I am on the bus! ooo, I was tired, but so excited. In the morning, I awoke to see something that reminded me of the book, the Alchemist...OK guys, I have more stories to tell of Arequipa, but its really late! Next time, ok? Thanks for reading!

Blast off!

Once upon a time not long ago, a lifelong student envisioned a chance of a lifetime..."Backpack South America...nawwww...Boy you must be crazy!! But wait! Why not? Take the leap, bookworm. You won't get this valuable free time for a long while. Look at the risks!"

Some things are worth risking. Hopefully this journey will be too. I think it will be...right now my time is so much more valuable than my money. Its South America people!! Are you kidding me?? What an outstanding place to learn!

This trip will also be SOLO!! Learning is my goal, but every ounce of common sense will be tested these next few weeks. I hope for this pilgrimage not only to include meeting people, speaking spanish, and seeing sites, but also to learn my relationship with God. Do I really believe in Him? Even when I only have my own wits to save myself? I think I'll be alright.

Lots of time, too, for deep reflection on ND and this year. The most important task of this year so far has NOT been getting into med school, but instead it was about letting go of ND. I think not letting go is selfish, no? Embrace new people and places with all of your attention and passion. This year has been amazing. Working in the real world taught me so much. Most of all, it showed me how sheltered we all were in ND!

Giddy up, cowboy. Here's the plan:


9 weeks!
April 14-28: Land in Peru, explore Lima and Machu Piccu, hike through the Andes
April 28-May 12: Bus to Bolivia from Puno. Navigate Lake Titicaca, see Salar de Uyuni
May 12-May 26: Bus to Chile, visit Wine Country, be a vaquero, wave at penguins in Patagonia
May 26-June 9: Cross into Argentina while in Patagonia, tango my butt off, finish with Iguazu Falls and Buenos Aires.
June 9-June 17: Revisit Honduras, Utila, and TreeTanic!
June 17-middle of July: Come home, hug family, make them laugh, stress them out, show them pictures, have our BBQ's with Scooby running around.

Except going into and leaving South America, this trip will carried solely by buses! "Enjoy the journey," Nise always tells me. OK, Nise, I will take my time on this one. I am also excited about the people and stories that await me. They await my stories too. A wise man once said to me in New Mexico, "Tell me who your friends are, and I'll tell you who you are." Even though this trip is SOLO, I'll be sharing all of you guys with South America. Thank you for all of your blessings and all of your miracles, friends and family. But please pray for me!

I'll keep you guys updated with pictures and interesting stories as much as I can! Good luck to everyone on your unique journey. My dad said to me a few weeks ago, "Jay, I hope you find what you are looking for." Me too, dad. Me too.

ps: please only contact me through email or facebook. Phone calls are very expensive!